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| Hiroki Nakamura & Diane Pernet |
Here's a preview article which focuses on the origins of Japanese selvage denim. Fashion icons such as Hiroki Nakamura, Nigo, Pharrell all subscribe to the true provenance of high quality denim. PhsicsMag's Private issue in the works. Thank you - Tebs
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| Japanese selvage denim |
The Japanese city of Okayama, the
capital city of Okayama Prefecture situated about 540 km south west of the
country’s capital, is renowned for its mysterious 400 year old castle, which
sits on the banks of the Takahashi River.
The fall of the Meiji government and the subsequent post World War II reconstruction
meant that Japan’s cities saw rapid economic growth and exponential industrial expansion. Denim
production only reached Japan in the 1950s. This was due to a decline in the demand
for imported denim from the U.S and Europe, which led to the purchasing of
traditional shuttle looms from American denim milling facilities by Japanese denim manufacturers.
It’s fair to say that Japanese selvage denim actually originates from the
States, well… the technology thereof.
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| denim dying process |
A shuttle loom is a piece of
machinery that is used in the weaving process of yarn. The first loom was
patented by John Kay in 1733, which was known as the Flying Shuttle. Between
the 1930s and 1950s, an increase in the demand for denim in America meant that
milling facilities had to adapt their machinery to meet the growing demand. A
lot of facilities chose to let go of the traditional shuttle looms, which are said
to have been inefficient and cumbersome. Letting go of these shuttle looms
paved the way for automated projectile looms, which produced in mass, and
allowed for an effective economies of scale. Japanese milling facilities bought
the shuttle looms at the time.
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| shuttle loom |
Today, selvage denim is perhaps
the most desired denim fabric due to its superior texture and authentic feel. What’s
the difference, you may ask? In the weaving process of a traditional shuttle
loom, the horizontal edges of the thread loop continuously, without leaving any
edges which would have to be stitched once the entire process is complete. This
quality feature means that your denims last longer. Selvedge denim doesn’t fray, nor shrink. The
craft element is perhaps the most distinguishing factor behind authentic
Japanese selvage denim, one which makes it a Private icon. People who appreciate
fine craft understand that we are all connected; whether it’s a selvage denim
weaving craftsperson in Okayama or a denim enthusiast in South Africa.
