Photography Credits: Le Blog de Betty (Betty Autier)
The democratization of fashion
has done little to remove the homogeneity that encompasses runways shows, and
the groupthink within the industry’s recruits. Instead, the fact that fashion
is more accessible today than ever before has turned events like fashion week
into media spectacles. Is it fair to say that nothing in fashion is truly
exclusive anymore? Earlier this year Shala Monroque’s Garage premiered its Take
My Picture docu-film. Having partaken in fashion media relations myself for
quite some time, I watched this film with much interest.
Anna Wintour's first ever Vogue cover is said to portray the beginning of fashion's democratization
The rest of the world might view fashion to be a self-serving force.
I have no problem with that, and if you've been exposed to the industry you’d
know that when events that shook the world took place, such as the 2009
financial meltdown, fashion remained in its self-serving corner. My concern has
more to do with the craze that sweeps across cities during fashion season.
Fashion weeks were initially established to allow for the seasonal buying
business model to take form. This was back when fashion buyers would buy items
from the runway 6 months before they were in season. Then came the
globalization of fashion. Stores opened up everywhere from Shanghai to Hong
Kong. In trying to remain as exclusive as possible, retailers persuaded fashion
houses to add more collections to their calendar years, such as resort,
pre-fall, and cruise collections etc. This move allowed for a store in Hong Kong,
for example, to have in their inventory an item which had just been revealed,
while garnering the store enough time to order new items within season. These
pre-collections have also contributed to the democratization of fashion because
of the way they generate spin and publicity. Add an increasingly aggressive
fast fashion business environment, diffusion lines, collaborative execution
models and you have what we have today, a revealingly disjointed structure which
is failing to capture what or who is truly influential in the present fashion
times.
Democratization begins at an
individual level. Being able to write a product review or a blog on something
is truly empowering. Being able to fly to Paris to take a snapshot of something
that won’t be out for another 6 months is an even more exciting spectacle. But,
if 50 000 people show up to do the exact same thing as you, and another million
more online watching from their desktops, it’s no longer an event that truly
depicts the essence of the craft, it’s a marketing drive! Let’s just rather
watch Manchester United vs Arsenal; same idea in terms of ratings, just more unpredictable
with regards to the outcome! In closing, I would like to say that the social
web is new to all of us. We have seen how a simple Tweet can start an uprising,
and how a Facebook post can spark outrage. Fashion is not isolated from these
occurrences and it can’t view itself as being any special. In democratizing its
presence, fashion has to let go of its homogeneity. Same faces, same designs, same
view points. Where has fashion’s democratization left you? It has left me rather isolated.
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